Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Coastal Flood Processes Along the California Coast

As the Atlantic hurricane season draws to a close and the Pacific storm season picks up, I thought it would be interesting to consider the differences in coastal flood processes between these two coastlines and remind us what's on the way this winter. The post below is based on an article I prepared as part of FEMA's coastal flood mapping along the California coast, currently underway. That article can be found here, but this one has pictures!

Recent media coverage of catastrophic coastal flood events, such as Hurricanes Katrina (2005) and Sandy (2012), has increased the public’s awareness of coastal flood vulnerabilities along the nation’s shorelines. These large storm systems, with their powerful winds and overwhelming storm surge and rainfall, can devastate coastal communities. Due to these recent events, the public has seen firsthand the damage wrought by large tropical storm systems along the Gulf and Atlantic coastlines. But what about coastal storms in California? Coastal storm systems and impacts along the California coast differ significantly from the Atlantic and Gulf Coasts due to the characteristics of the Pacific Ocean basin, storm types, and steep coastal topography.

As we know, hurricanes are a relatively common occurrence along the Atlantic and Gulf shorelines. In contrast, the likelihood for a hurricane to make direct landfall along the California coast is very remote, although offshore tropical storms can affect coastal communities through wind, rain, and remote swell impacts. Due to the oceanographic conditions in the northeast Pacific Ocean and the narrow continental shelf, it is not possible to generate the large storm surges seen in the warmer and shallower Gulf and Atlantic waters. Instead, coastal flooding along the California coast is typically a result of the combination of high tides, modest storm surge, and moderate to high wave energy. Unlike the Gulf and Atlantic coasts, where storm surge in excess of 20 feet is possible, storm surge along the California coast rarely reaches 3 feet and is typically on the order of 1-2 feet during winter storm events. Instead, wave effects, such as wave setup and runup, typically dominate flood levels at the shoreline. The majority of coastal flood events in California occur during the late fall through early spring and are the result of extratropical storm systems that originate offshore in the northeast Pacific Ocean. During El Niño winters, tides are further elevated along the coastline and storms follow a more southerly track, exposing the California coast to abnormally high tides, wave-induced flooding, and coastal erosion.

The summary below explains various types of coastal flood processes along the California coast that are typically responsible for flood impacts, ranging from King Tides to extratropical storms to tsunamis:

King Tide – Abnormally high, but predictable, astronomical tides that occur approximately twice per year, typically during the winter months. King Tides are the highest tides that occur each year and typically exceed 7 feet (relative to mean lower low water). Coastal flood impacts include nuisance flooding and inundation of low-lying roads and paths. High tides can exacerbate coastal and riverine flooding, especially in inland bay areas such as San Francisco and Newport Bays.


A 7 ft King Tide at San Francisco's Embarcadero (January 21, 2012). During the 1983 El Nino, the water level was 1.5 ft higher.


Extreme High Tide – When Pacific Ocean storms coincide with high astronomical tides, storm surge due to meteorological effects can further elevate water levels along the coast to produce extreme tides. El Niño conditions along the coast can also contribute to storm surge and produce extraordinarily high water levels (for example, January 1983 and February 1998). Extreme high tides can exceed 7.5 to 8.5 feet in southern and central California and 10 feet in northern California. Impacts include severe inundation of inland bay shorelines, intensification of upstream riverine flooding, and inhibited drainage from stormwater outfalls in tidally influenced areas.

The table below shows the typical tide range and highest observed tide at various points along the California coastline*. As you can see, the tide range increases from south to north. Additionally, the magnitude and frequency of storm surge events increases as well. These factors combine to produce more extreme tides in the north than the south.

Station Daily Tide Range (ft) Highest
Observed (ft)
Port Orford, OR 7.3 11.5
Crescent City, CA 6.9 10.7
North Spit, Humboldt Bay, CA 6.9 9.7
Arena Cove, CA 5.9 8.6
Point Reyes, CA 5.8 8.5
San Francisco, CA 5.8 8.7
Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA 5.9 8.7
Princeton, Half Moon Bay, CA 5.7 8.5
Ano Nuevo Island, CA 5.4 8.3
Monterey, CA 5.3 7.9
Port San Luis, CA 5.3 7.7
Santa Barbara,  CA 5.4 7.4
Rincon Island, CA 5.5 7.8
Santa Monica, CA 5.4 8.5
Los Angeles, CA 5.5 7.9
La Jolla, CA 5.3 7.7
San Diego, CA 5.7 8.1
*All tide heights reported relative to the MLLW tidal datum.

Wind Wave Event – Pacific Ocean storms or strong thermal gradients can produce strong winds that blow across sheltered water bodies and inland bays (for example, San Francisco Bay, Tomales Bay, etc.). When the wind blows over long reaches of open water, large waves can be generated that impact the shoreline and cause damage to coastal structures such as levees, docks and piers, wharfs, and revetments. Locally generated wind waves in the southern California bight can also cause flood and erosion issues along the open coast shoreline.

Locally generated wind waves at Point Pinole in San Francisco Bay

Pacific Winter Storm – During the winter, storm systems from the Aleutian Islands, Hawaii (“Pineapple Express”), and other parts of the North Pacific impact the California coastline. Storms generally approach from the west or northwest, although “southeaster” events can also occur in southern California. These low pressure systems generate large waves and elevated tide levels along the coast. Impacts include beach and bluff erosion and damage to homes and coastal structures.

Winter storm waves batter the Pacifica shoreline (January 2011)

El Niño Winter Storm – During El Niño winters, atmospheric and oceanographic conditions in the Pacific Ocean produce severe extratropical winter storms that impact the California coast. Storms follow a more southerly track and bring intense rainfall and storm conditions. Rainfall and elevated tide levels persist through the winter and often coincide to produce upstream riverine flooding. Impacts are widespread but sheltered south facing beaches are particularly vulnerable. The El Nino cycle oscillates on approximately a 5-7 year timelime. El Ninos correspond to warmer than normal surface ocean temperatures and La Ninas correspond to cooler than normal surface ocean temperatures in the equatorial Pacific. The Oceanic Nino Index quantifies the strength of the El Nino/La Nina based on the magnitude of this temperature anomaly.

The El Nino-Southern Oscillation Index, which indicates the strength of El Nino (red) and La Nina (blue) events. Recent significant El Ninos include 1982-83, 1997-98, and 2009-2010.
 
Remote Swell – Remote swell is generated by storms in the Pacific Ocean and from other regions such as Baja California and more distant areas such as New Zealand. Storm types include offshore extratropical storms, tropical storms, hurricanes, and southern hemisphere storms. Remote swell events can be difficult to predict since waves travel from distant source regions. Impacts include wave damage and overtopping along the shoreline, particularly to coastal structures such as breakwaters, piers, and revetments. Wave overtopping can also cause inundation and ponding of water in backshore areas, such as low-lying roads and parking lots. 

Tsunami – Tsunamis are extremely long period waves generated primarily by earthquakes, but can also be caused by volcanic eruptions or landslides. Tsunamis can be generated from far-field source regions such as Chile, Alaska, or Japan and from near-field source regions along the Pacific coast. Impacts include strong currents and long lasting water level oscillations in harbors which can damage docks, piers, and boats moored within the harbor. For larger tsunami events, impacts could include shoreline inundation and overland flow of water that damages structures in low-lying areas.

Damage at the Crescent City harbor after the March 2011 Japan tsunami (Photo: Nicole Metzger)
Numerical modeling predictions of tsunami wave height and arrival times across the Pacific for the Japan earthquake in 2011. Also of note is the focusing of wave energy in the vicinity of Crescent City in northern California. Source: NOAA Center for Tsunami Research, Pacific Marine Environmental Laboratory

Sunday, August 25, 2013

Kayak Camping in Tomales Bay

This past weekend a group of our friends planned a kayak camping trip to Tomales Bay. Despite daunting logistics, we managed to transport 24 kayakers the 2.5 miles from Marshall, across Tomales Bay, to Tomales Beach. We arranged to meet Saturday morning at Blue Waters Kayaking in the town of Marshall on Tomales Bay's east shore. The weather was surprisingly calm and warm despite a small craft advisory along the open coast due to offshore winds.

A calm start to the day on Tomales Bay

Once we all arrived, we packed up our stuff and completely filled the Blue Water motorboat with gear and supplies. I was worried we might sink the boat, but the boat driver was very accommodating so we loaded him down with all the essential (and non-essential) gear! In order to feel like I was pulling my own weight, we loaded our kayak with a few small bags to share the burden.

Motorboat support, courtesy of Blue Water Kayaking. This was only part of the way through the packing.

The staff pulled out our 12 kayaks and briefed us on proper kayaking technique, which apparently involves synchronized holding of the paddle over your head.

Now, hold the paddle over your head and make a right angle with your arms...

From the pier, Tomales Beach looked like a long ways away.  Just as we cast off, a light breeze picked up and produced some wind chop which we had to negotiate. I steered our boat straight across the Bay so that we could head up along the west shore with some shelter from the wind and waves.

Anne and Mike, Tomales Bay pirates, attempting to sink our kayak.

Easy going on the west side out of the wind.

We passed Marshall Beach along the way but continued onwards to Tomales Beach. I didn't time it exactly, but it seemed like it took a little over an hour to make it over to our camping spot. The combination of the wind and the incoming tide slowed us down a bit.

Success! Laying claim to Tomales Beach

Our gear and supplies were waiting for us on the beach when we arrived. We pulled the kayaks ashore above the high tide line and set up our tents, which was followed by much napping and lounging on the beach. The weather continued to improve and stayed calm the rest of the day.


We had some great weather and the sun persisted into the early evening. I grabbed my camera and took some shots. It was very peaceful and quiet. The nearest road is over a half mile away and only boat-in camping is allowed.

Small sandy point at the north end of Tomales Beach

View across the Bay

Not a bad view!

The crew played some football, frisbee, and even a game of Settlers of Catan before assembling for dinner. Tacos and burritos were on the menu, including tortillas, tomatoes, beans, avocados, onions, mushrooms, cheese, salsa, and hot sauce. Oh, and of course, soy chorizo (which tastes better than it sounds)!

Anne and Mike during the Great Mushroom/Onion Cook-off of 2013

And THAT is what soy chorizo looks like...

Allison and I went for a walk up the hill and got a nice vantage point to the cove just to the north of our beach. We saw a lone kayak heading back towards the shore just as it was getting dark.

Lone kayaker on Tomales Bay at sunset with Hog Island in the background

The weather stayed clear and although we couldn't quite see the sunset we got a nice display of clouds and fog in the evening light.


We waited until it got dark and then started the fire. Jonas had thought of just about everything and dessert consisted of pineapple skewers and smores.

Roasting pineapple skewers over the very hot fire

After some time around the fire, we were ready for the main act of the evening - bioluminescent dinoflagellates - or, glow-in-the-dark algae! Apparently during certain times of the year, these plankton are concentrated in the shallow waters of Tomales Bay. As we paddled out into the darkness we saw this magic in action. The plankton produce flickers of light when they are disturbed so every paddle stroke seemed to produce hundreds of tiny sparkles in the water. We could even see the paths of fish under the boat as they darted through the eelgrass, illuminated by the plankton. It was quite an experience and definitely one of the coolest natural phenomena we had ever observed.

The next morning we awoke to a foggy wet bay as the sun tried to push through and burn off the fog.


After a breakfast of eggs, mangoes, and croissants, we packed up our gear and readied the boats for the paddle back.

Mike and Sam getting ready for the paddle back to Marshall



Low tide shoreline along Tomales Beach


With the wind at our backs (and improved paddling technique) we made short work of the paddle back, covering the 2.5 miles in under an hour. After a short wait back in Marshall, the motorboat arrived with our gear and we were on our way! We headed north along Highway 1 and spotted Tomales Beach across the Bay.

Tomales Beach viewed from Highway 1 across the Bay

It was just about lunchtime so we headed inland to Santa Rosa and hit up the Russian River brewery. A fine way to end the weekend!

Monday, July 29, 2013

A walk in the woods - Point Reyes

This past weekend, we headed up to Point Reyes for a quick backpacking trip. We had reservations at Site 10 at Sky camp, off Limantour Road. Despite the lack of rain for several months, the hills of Point Reyes seemed as wet and foggy as ever!

We followed the Sky Trail uphill for a little over a mile to the Sky Camp. It was a really straightforward hike and a great way to get out into the wilds with little effort. Quite a few trails are accessible from the campground so it's a good base to explore the area.

I took a quick cell phone photo of the guidebook map for quick reference.

We set up camp at our site which was about 100 yards off the main trail. We took a short out and back hike southward on the Sky Trail while we still had some daylight.


We ran into a few folks on the trail but in general it was quite peaceful.


We soon entered a more densely forested area and the trail got incredibly muddy! It was easy to see why. The trees were doing their job harvesting the water right out of the air - it was practically raining down on the forest floor.


The fog poured through the tree canopy and the light was muted but still amazing. I kept falling behind to take pictures as the landscape became more eery and unusually green.


There were signs of life though and we walked through a clearing where some beautiful orange flowers emerged.


As the sun set we saw all shades of white, grey, and black as the trees were silhouetted against the sky. Not your typical oranges and reds to signal the end of the day.


We turned around to head back to camp and took one final glimpse of the fog machine in action, now rolling through the tall trees.


The next day, we headed down to the end of Limantour Road to the beach. I had never visited this beach before and really enjoyed it! It's always a unique experience to look over the water and see land where you are not expecting it! Hello Point Reyes!

View looking west along Limantour Beach, across Drakes Bay, with Point Reyes in the distance

We picked up a beach clean-up bag courtesy of All One Ocean and NPS and did our best to find plastic debris scattered on the beach. These boxes seem like such a great idea and I hope to see more of them!

All One Ocean beach clean-up station provide re-purposed coffee bags to collect trash from the beach

We wandered along the beach and made our way back to the car, crossing over the channels and marsh of the upper reaches of the Limantour Estero.


We made our way back over the hill to Point Reyes Station and then headed up the eastern shore of Tomales Bay to the Marshall Store, a seafood shack perched over the waters of the bay. We ordered some oysters and watched the last bit of sunshine disappear behind the fog bank. Time to head home!

When in Rome... Tomales Bay oysters at the Marshall Store.